台北金山 漁路八煙情

[  早春. 魚路古道 ]  Early Spring. The Yulu Historical Trail

There are a few major “old trails” in Taiwan that are more like the “highway” of the older times when there was no highway across the mountains or freeways around the island. People living in different corners move across the up-and-down landscapes by these hand-built paths. On a very spring-like Saturday, we set off to a “old route” on the mountain around the… (continue reading…)

古道,是古人走出來的道路。古道,是時光流逝的遺跡。古道,更是許多故事的藏寶盒,靜靜地等待著耳朵聆聽的地方。

之前有一陣子常在週末的(介紹台灣+充滿冒險精神的節目)電視看到介紹台灣古道的節目,一群人走在前不見古人,後不見來者的樹林裡,經專家一指點,就發現被樹幹或落葉覆蓋的舊石板路,那種感覺應該就像挖到一個天大的秘密,而且 at the moment….

…只有你我知道。

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早上8:00 從劍潭捷運站的巴士站等待小15公車,上擎天崗。
Waiting at the bus stop outside of the Jiantan MRT station (where the Shilin Night Market is) at 8am, waiting for the bus to go up the Yangming Mountain.

I got to sit at the front seat of the bus!
第一次坐公車的最前面的位子.


到了擎天崗。這裡可以鳥瞰壟罩在台北市上空的塵霧. 下面那看得很明顯的大樓就是台北火車站附近的新光三越大樓。這邊之所以就擎天崗是因為這邊曾有派駐一支擎天部隊。陽明山這邊有一塊很大的草皮,這對敵軍來說是很棒的跳傘及降落的地點,因為這邊四通八達,離所有台北的重要地點都很近,而且大砲放這就幾乎可直打台北市,算是軍事保衛的重地。

We arrived at Cingtiangang – a place where there’s still military stations up here because of its location: it’s too close to the Taipei City and the gentle grassy slopes make it an easy-to-land location for intruders. But other than that, this place has a superb view of Taipei in morning mist.

台北的陽明山還是個活火山,雖然至少上千年才會再爆發,但一個這樣的亞洲城市居然是建在活火山旁,這算是很特別吧。
It’d be hard to imagine a city like Taipei is actually surrounded by a volcano that may still erupt some day.

火山口要從空中看才看得到,不然這些山看起來就和一般綠色的山沒什麼兩樣。
View of the volcano from above.

因為這邊是火山,所以這邊早期又產硫磺礦。
Because this place is a volcanic place, mining for sulfur was one of the main business here.

走Yami 在日文來說是走"闇"路的意思,這用在魚路古道指的也就是在晚上進行的不合法的行為。從前在魚路古道晚上趕路的有幾個情況,一個是要搶鮮將魚貨從東北海岸運到台北販賣。另一個是在貨物買賣交易受政府限制與管控時,擔魚人走私販賣魚貨的情況。1940 年代時許多民生物資都屬配給,從金山走私魚貨到士林,草山, 北投等地方算是常事。

This historical trail is also called the “Yami” (which means “dark” in Japanese) because in the past when goods and resources where regulated, people would smuggle what they catch in the sea to Taipei for sale (not legal). So these smugglers would take their risk at night to transport the fish from Kinshan to Taipei on foot.

這間往漁路古道前進旁看似沒什麼特別的土地公廟,卻有著重要的歷史意義。
This small temple for the local god doesn’t look much different from the hundreds and thousands of other ones in other parts of Taipei or Taiwan but this temple bares historical significance for those who had to walk on the “dark” trail to bring their fish into Taipei City for trade at midnight.

昔日的擔漁人在走私漁貨時,經過這大嶺土地公廟前都會擲筊,祈禱一路平安,不會被抓。
Those who used to “smuggle” fish into the city would pray at this temple before they move on to walk the trail.


擎天崗的精神標語.
The place “Cingtiangang” is named after a military stationed here. This pavillion is engraved with interesting words about getting rid of communists and restoring their power at mainland China. This was obviously back in the days when the KMT had to retreat to Taiwan after defeats.

Somethings you just don’t notice unless someone points it out to you. This summer pavilion is actually built on top of a foretress. The square “holes” are the arrow/gun shooting windows.

Around the area.

這看起來像滑雪道的草皮,其實也是古道之一。只不過這邊本來整片都是草皮。因為原本在這的水牛因過去發生牛撞傷人的事件而被迫遷走,這些芒草沒有牛來除(牛有點像除草機),這間就成了這樣的一片。

The gate to the Jinbaoli Path.
金包里大路的城門.

金包里大道城門.
The Jinbaoli City Gate.

這邊的路有分 “金包里大路” 和”日人路”.
There are two major different routes here – the Jingbaoli Trail and the Japanese Trail. Jingbaoli trail was built earlier and it had more short cuts and more ups-and-downs/steeper route. The Japanese trail was a flatter/smoother trail built byJapanese when they occupied Taiwan and had to transport resources and military goods from places.


View from the trail. The smoke is from a fumarole.
一路的風景.


There are signs like this along the way.

可以看到路嗎?
Can you see the trail?

Some paths are closed beause the trails are not still cleared due to typhoon and etc.


From a bridge
.

供給山下的水, 大雨後的水果然多.
The channel for transporting water down the mountain for people to use.

生態特寫 Plants, Ferns and Flowers.

這也算是我們這次的重點之一!
One of the main points with this trip is photography in wilderness. So we took some photos with these things in focus:


See a tiny worm?
看到小小的毛毛蟲了嗎?

We had a sort of wildlife class, mostly about ferns.
還上了一些關於蕨類的課.

筆筒樹 – 一種蕨類除了有像蛇皮的紋路外還是中空的. 目前這在台灣面臨浩劫,許多野生的都陸續枯委,一個星期後我在草嶺古道上驗證了這樣的事實.
Cyathea lepifera – a kind of tree that’s nicknamed a “pen/pencil holder” because it’s hollow inside. It is also characterized by its beautiful skin patterns. But this species encounters some problems in Taiwan because a lot of them in the wilderness have been found dead. Experts have been trying to find out the cause and stopping the spread.

A kind of flower that’s supposedly found by the sea but you see it here for some strange reason.
顏色很艷的花, 聽說應該是在海邊的種類,不知道為什麼這會有.

拍團體照時刻!
Group photo spot.

The hotspring pool is welcoming us.
馬上衝過去!

There were not a lot of people there that day. Maybe it’s because it was the last day of the long Chinese New Year holiday & most people went back to prepare for the next day.
那天在溫泉旅館沒有很多人,也許是因為農曆年的長假期就要結束了.

      

我們幾個只有泡腳. 不過其他人有去泡全身.
The hotspring pool was quite nice & it’s in the Ja

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漁路心,八煙情。

這次選魚路古道,其實也算有點 random,當時只覺得活動的名稱聽起來就好像是條有著許多藏起來的故事的一條路。 魚路古道是它的全盛時期是條連接金山和台北的 “高速公路”,是漁民挑著漁貨到北投、士林等地方販賣的主要道路。
這條約6.3公里的魚路古道也是所謂的金包里大路,它還是條在第二世界大戰時期的 “暗"路。當所有的農作收成物都須充公,供給在前線作戰或為國家付出的人時,漁貨,因不像農作物是較容易知道收成多少,成了漁民和當時人民需在夜晚 “走私"(為了不被充公+增加收入) 的重要物資,這條也就是漁民連夜趕路的主要道路。
看得到細節的行走體驗
有時候,你會看不到細節,就像如果你要畫出一把樂器,你就會發現你很難光憑記憶或想像去畫出來,有些細節是你之前沒有注意到的,但這些細節也可能決定你是否能完成你的 task。魚路古道對於登山客和健行者,是一條熱門又很讚的假日戶外休閒步道。我們這一路上有老師的解說,發現了許多事物都有一個你很容易因忽略了細節而擦身而過的故事。
一個一般登山客不經意路過的小土地公廟,卻是過去路過的人必定駐足求神問普的精神指標。一個看起來在普通不過的中式涼亭,沒想到細看左右對聯,又是共匪又是復興中華,最意想不到的是它直接就蓋在過去的碉堡上。一條又一條在山上蜿蜒的路,不只有分 “正統” 的魚路古道,還有過去日本人為了運砲和物資而鋪的平緩的 “日人路”。走入森林,除了芬多精,我們還吸收了許多關於筆筒樹、台灣梭羅等蕨類植物的知識。
故事的傳人
在土地公廟前,老師談論著這座小廟每逢重要節日的熱鬧時,剛好在廟上香拜拜的當地老婆婆,也很熱情的跟我們說著當時的盛況與現在仍在繼續的地方習俗。那時就覺得故事不是一個書上所說的故事,而是一個真實在生活中發生的事。而且我們好像都參予了那個彷彿還在進行中的故事,似乎能想像過去的人和現在的人還去金山老街買供奉神明的物品…。語畢,我們被拉回現實。那種老一輩的人樂於分享的溫馨,也許也是台灣讓外國人覺得都很熱情的原因之一。
聽著上一輩人的故事,尤其是過去的點點滴滴,讓人覺得自己好像有點不同,因為我們的世界裡因此多了許多故事,還有更多的想像。而且我們也許是這故事唯一的傳人,被賦予一個使命將故事繼續流傳下去。

最後,天漸漸轉涼時,我們走出了八煙的溫泉旅館,帶著愉悅的心情踏上了下山之路。

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上上一代的人告訴上一代的人,要好好讀書,讀最好的學校,拿最好的成績,才有辦法找到好的工作,過好的生活。

但,上一代的人要告訴這一代的人:好好去玩吧。但盡量地去玩並…..不是沒有學習的胡亂玩,而是從”走出去” 體驗到值得學習的內容,讓出去玩也能是滿是收穫,這是有產值,有增廣見聞的玩。

你可以吃吃喝喝,但你學到了什麼讓人覺得你就是不同的呢?

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A trip sponsored by:  青年壯遊點-部落客瘋體驗

More photos on MY FLICKR: 


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