[ 宜蘭 ] 草嶺古道 – 連接台北早期的官道

T’here’s something that will only become a treasure after it has been walked on.

As the weather was getting more summer like, we went for a healthy hike in the mountains on the east coast. This time, we also took a historical trail name “Caoling HIstorical Trail”. It is important historically because it was “the” link between Taipei and the east coast via land. The alternative route back then would have been the dangerous sea. (continue reading…)

之前去貢寮滑獨木舟時就有聽過這個: 草嶺古道曾是宜蘭聯絡台北的唯一官道,也是過去加速宜蘭地區開發的翻山越嶺之道。最近天氣比較像夏天,所以我們比較常走古道路線 。不過這次還加了早晨的叭噗冰淇淋, 也有了蝴蝶博士的講解, 讓我們….



從台北出發到頭城 早上就開始了吃吃喝喝, 而且是冰淇淋!  不過這家的真的好吃.
We started eating and drinking early.. and I meant.. eating as in eating ice-cream. But this one is a 50 year-old ice-cream store and it has excellent ice-cream!
古早的叭噗 – 賣冰淇淋就是放在這樣的腳踏車,到處叫賣.
In the old days, the Taiwanese ice-cream is put in an ice box on a bicycle and sold pretty much from door to door or in public areas. The ice-cream is not the creamy type. It’s more like a mix of sorbet and ice-cream. The most popular flavours back then were taro (sweet potato) and peanut flavours.. but of course there were also other kinds.
Where we’re heading today. We drove to the east coast of Taiwan, a town called Toufen to start our hike.

We started from Dali Tiangong Temple.
Fishing boat.

The Old Trail we’re taking – Caoling Historic Trail. The whole trail is about 11 km. We walked half way and came back down the mountains to drive the cars.
當時上山的花大多都還沒開。不過這路邊的野花也可以用來當 photo-taking training 用。
Detailed flower shot. Most of the flowers on the mountain were not in bloom yet but there are always wild flowers like this for us to practice the photo-taking training.

Ferns in Taiwan.

The butterfly was “calm” enough for me to take a photo of it.

過去的護管所.  執行林地護管 (check 濫伐/濫墾林木 & 森林火災及時應變) 的工作辦事處.
Outside of the forestry office where people here take on the role of protecting the forest from fires, illegal lumbering, etc.). This office was set up around 1970s.

We were resting behind the office then a hiker came and asked us about the Tiger Inscription. So it turned out that this man (a photographer) is the author of a book that talks about all the stories behind that Tiger Inscription.

走沒多遠… 我們又到了涼亭 (=可休息的地方).
猜猜這是什麼!一 個超妙的東西.
It wasn’t for long that we stopped at another pavillion.
But anyway… Guess what the thing is (the long pole thing).

自拍用的腳架!  怎麼會有這樣的東西, 也太神奇了!
Don’ t have a tripod and no one to take photos for you. You can take it this way.
This is hilarious!

其實這是有劇情的… 你猜猜?
後面的雨傘算是不是很成功的打光方式… lol.
Actually there’s a story to this photo. Do you see it?


” 報告! 我們又到了一個涼亭!” (其實才走沒多久..)
” 所以… 我們是又要坐嗎…?”
那… 這樣我們一路坐上去可能要到天黑才會到了.

“Sir! Here’s another resting place!” (actually we hadn’t walked too far…)
“So… Are we going there to rest again?”
But then…. does that mean by thew time we get to where we want to, it’d already be midnight?!

有點像古代的那種路邊可以么喝 “店小二, 上一壺茶!” 的地方.
A bit like a place in the older times when you can stop by one of these roadside food stands and order something to fill the stomach before moving on.

秋風話中的盧宅. 現在已是廢墟. 這就是過去清朝時期, 來往宜蘭台北的人會落腳的休息站.
The Lu House (Reed House) was a resting station for travelers who move to/from Taipei.

從海邊那邊的高度一路走上來… 真真切切的 “翻山越嶺”.
We got up here from sea level.

Another bigger pavilion.

往貢寮的方向. 還要走個 6 公里吧.
The path towards Gongliao.. but there’s still 6 km to go. We were going there in the strange weather.

虎字碑 – “雲從龍,風從虎”. 1867 年當台灣總兵劉明燈北巡經過這裡(草嶺啞口)時,遇到令他們難以辨別方向的狂風與大霧。在此他放置了虎字碑,藉字來鎮住狂風。這字從不同的角度來看有點像凹進去的字,又像凸起來的字。

Tiger Inscription – In 1867, when the Taiwan Regional Commander  Liu Ming-deng arrived at the Caoling Pass, the place became so windy and foggy that it was difficult for them to find their way. There’s a Chinese s
aying that “Clouds obey the dragon; winds obey the tiger”. So the commander inscribed the Chinese character for “Tiger” on a rock and placed it here to suppress the wind.

 View of the east coastline.

Air Shots


A few micro seconds away.

Take off.


蟲蟲危機? 在一棵枯樹上的生態.
Bugs on a wood with mushrooms.

整條草嶺古道大概是 11 km, 我們走到了一半就折回來了. 那時真的是天氣一變就變很大,烏雲來了,風大了,也開始飄細雨。 我們怕感冒和下雨,所以匆匆趕下山. 接下來… 其實我們還有一個晚上的行程!

When we got to the Caoling Pass half way, the temperature dropped quite a bit and it was getting windy and a bit rainy. We sweated our way up the mountain. So it was better for us not to catch a cold then. Well.. other than that, we also had something else to do that evening. You’ll see.

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