[ 宜蘭 ] 龜山島登島記

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[ 一座我們常常經過, 也常常說要登的島 ]

The Turtle Island (or Guishan Island) is off the shore of Yilan County, on the east coast of Taiwan. This island is a bit different from any island in that it has an active volcano, some local fishermen history and military background. It was closed to the public for a while when it became a base for military. It’s now reopened but visiting the island requires application to… (continue reading…)

UK 回來的第一天就殺去這啦!龜山島就是那個每次我們開車會經過但是又一直沒去的島,它和其他的島有點不同的地方是上島要事先登記, 這裡曾是軍事基地, 現在還有個一直在噴泉的海底火山. 它看起來像隻烏龜, 是個有點神祕的….

…. 島嶼. 一般團體都是坐船到這停留個2個小時走走看看, 如果要爬山的也行, 可加 401高地. 不過那真的要看天氣, 不然在沒什麼遮蔽的地方爬山如果刮大風下大雨應該很難受吧. 之後其他團都會加個坐船環島一舟看不同的景, 不然再加個賞鯨的行程.

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…. the local authority weeks in advance.

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假日去台灣東岸就要有心裡準備,因為路上一定塞!
When going to the east coast of Taiwan on weekend or national holidays, be prepared to be stuck in traffic!

 

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建築很特殊的蘭陽博物館, 可惜這次沒有去. 旁邊沒有停車場, 烏石港的又塞到爆. 一下船就想要去吃東西啦.

Waiting at the visitor centre at the Wushi Harbour. The building you see in the photo is the newly opened Yilan County Lanyanng Museum. We were planning to visit here after we got off the boat. But we were too hungry and it was raining so we decided to go for food first.
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等待我們要搭的船進港.
Waiting for the boat we’re taking to come in.

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船要出港了!
Leaving the Wushi Harbour
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龜山島上綠意盎然, 表面上看起來不像是個活火山.
The island is full of vegetation. It’s a bit difficult to relate it to a volcano.
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這島上也曾經有住人, 不過後來國軍進駐, 住在這的人都被遷移了.
There used to be people living on this island (mostly fishermen). But when the military set up a base here, the habitants had to be relocated.

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這是這島上唯一的門牌, 但也式個郵差送不到的地址. 有點類似海角七號類的吧…
This is the house with a door number on this island. But if you send a mail to this address, your mail actually will not get delivered here.

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這間小廟曾是這島上唯一的信仰中心.
This small temple was once the centre of religious activities on this island (the ONLY temple on this island as well).

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這層是這島上最熱鬧和最大條的街.
This used to be the “high street” of the island settlement.

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這曾是島上的小學.
This used to be an elementary school.

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龜山島的奇景之一, 這龜尾可是會隨風向與海象而變更方向, 而且有一截在颱風來時可能會暫時斷掉, 如果一直沒有自己捕回去的話, 就代表下一個颱風又要來了. 如果斷了時, 下一個颱風來又會把它補回去. 有點神奇.
The tail of the “turtle” is quite interesting. It’ll “move” with the direction of sea or wind. A segment of it in the middle will also break off when typhoon strikes. But it’ll “repair” itself naturally or when the next typhoon strikes.

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島上的石頭幾乎都是這樣.
Rocks on this island is largely round.

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島孤人不孤. 這個字牌後面是個 800m 的軍事坑道. 1977 年龜山島被劃為軍事區.
This sign reads “the island is alone but people never are”. Behind this is a military tunnel from the 1970s.

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這邊也要過去軍事活動的遺跡. 這是之前的一個軍事坑道.
There were military activities on this island in the past. So some artifacts from that time is still around. This is a tunnel for military.

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在坑道裡面. 這裡面看起來很像我在馬祖走過那些坑道.
Inside the tunnel. This looks quite similar to the ones I went to in Mazu.
See previous posts:
1. [Matsu] Beigan and its War Time Stories // [舟遊北竿] 戰地故事
2. [Matsu] Breaking the Waves and Kayaking in the War Time Tunnel
[舟遊北竿] 獨木舟乘風破浪進戰地坑道.

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在天花板上那些刺刺的錐可以讓大砲發出的巨響變小, 類似消音作用.
The pointy things on the ceiling are for noise damping when the shots were fired.

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大砲瞄準的地方.
See where it’s aiming at.
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我覺得這張有禪的意境.
I think this photo has a “zen” feel to it. :p

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其實島上可以走的只有幾條步道, 大部份人來的話就是走這個環湖步道. 還有另外一個 401 高地那個是類似爬山. 但那個真的要看天氣, 如果颳風下雨要去走那個幾乎沒有地方可遮雨的.. 可能有點折騰.
There are only several foot paths visitors can take when they visit this island. The most common path is the path by the lake. This takes you through the remains of the old fishing village, around the lake to the military tunnel and back. There’s also another path up the mountains. But it wouldn’t be so good of an idea to be doing that when the weather is not too friendly.

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這邊也曾有個漁港, 但在完工後啓用一個月就被颱風給破壞了, 只剩下這個當紀念碑.
There used to be a small fishing harbour here too but after it was constructed, it only took about 1 month before typhoon destroyed it for good.

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當我們要離開時天氣變得風雨交加, 整片海不是藍也不是灰, 而是黑!
When we were leaving the Turtle Island, the weather turned upside down. The sea is no longer blue or grey. It was black! Then the rain poured down.

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雖然風雨交加, 但是我們還是要跑完環島的行程. 船載著我們繞了龜山島一圈, 經過”頭“的地方可以聞到非常濃的硫磺味, 因為這下面就是海底溫泉!這些靠近海平面的是眼鏡石洞, 是以前早期漁民和大陸漁民私下貿易之處.
Although it was raining quite hard, we still had to finish our boat trip around the island. We could really smell the sulphur in the sea. Normally around the site of the sea mount (volcano), people could see white patches. But I suppose the weather wasn’t too good that day so the water was a bit mixed. The small “caves” are the results of a natural erosion phenomenon. It was also where the fishermen of earlier times “illegally” traded with Chinese fishermen.

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在海上作業的船支在海上晃啊晃的, 看起來真的很辛苦.. 這時我們搭的船員看到很多人站都站不穩或一臉想吐的樣子, 居然說… “這只是雨大, 沒什麼風浪啦.” 所以這算是小 case 囉?
The fishing boats on the sea is swaying with the waves and wind. It’s really not easy to make a living when you have to deal with the unpredictability of the weather.

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這應該是我們剛剛去看的大砲的”窗戶”.
This should be where we saw the machine gun/cannon?!

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俗諺:”龜山戴帽, 大雨浩浩”(國語); “龜山那崁頭, 大雨隨時到” (台語). 神龜戴帽這個現象是早期當地人用來預測蘭陽平原是否會下雨的指標, 只要看到島上籠罩一層雲, 蘭陽平原很可能就會下大雨. 所以你看到今天的帽子了嗎?
They say, if you see a cloud hovering over the Turtle Island, the surrounding area is going to rain for a few days. It has been pretty accurate in predicting the weather. So we see that cloud as it rains.

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離開烏石港時我們又順道經過了阿宗芋冰城吃很讚的冰淇淋.
When we were on our way to our next destination, we stopped by the Ajon ice-cream place for its famous and special kind of ice-cream. The store is always filled with people!

Official website: http://www.ajon.com.tw/home/about.html

 

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在開往雪隧的路上. 今天的景色有點像水墨畫.
On the way back. The view of the east coast mountains is rather like a Chinese painting.

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之後到處都塞所以我們先去泡溫泉魚啦!
There was quite a long line to get back on the highway so we decided to go to Jiaoxi again for the hotspring fish “foot massage”.

 

My FLICKR photo slideshow:

http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=71649

Other readings:
孕育中的龜山島海底火山
台灣海底火山
Guishan Island

 

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