[桃園] 老蔣最後的家與慈湖

[ 老蔣最後的家 ]
This is a place that’s a bit controversial as Chinese history taught in China is a bit “different” from what really happened when the communist party came into power. This is also a visitor spot in Taiwan where you’d not find any Chinese tourists. Not only would the China government forbid it, part of the area actually belongs to the Taiwan National Defense Ministry … (continue reading...)

我悄悄的把部落格的主圖換了, 因為我找到了一張可以取代的照片. 這張是風和日麗的一個早上, 在平靜且沒有很多觀光客的慈湖拍的. 在桃園大溪的兩蔣文化園區是個之前很陌生的地方, 這次托好友的福可以預約到去看老蔣在慈湖永眠的地方, 是個很特別的 trip. 因為入園須預約, 而且有管制每天入園的人數, 所以在那邊也相對感…


… 覺到沒有太多人在背景的地方, 還真的是比較舒服.
——————————–

…. so, naturally, it is out of the question. This is the Culture Resort of The Chiang. The “Chiang” referred to here is Chiang Kai-shek (Jiang Jie-Shi), who was a succession of Sun Yat-Sen, the leader of the KMT (kuomingtang) party, and the president of the Republic of China (aka Taiwan) until 1975. More info about Chiang Kai-shek here.

一把車停到停車場, 還須搭個接駁車和跟隨導覽人員.
After we parked our cars at the parking lot, we had to take a shuttle bus to take us to the starting point of the tour. To visit the Culture Resort of the Chiang and the Cihu area, you need to apply/reserve ahead of time. There are only about 600 visitor passes available per day (quanity may vary from time to time).

 

第一個點就是百吉隧道. 慈湖之所以成了現在的慈湖起因就在這, 1950 年代, 蔣介石的車隊因無法穿越此隧道, 所以改坐轎子, 接而被慈湖地區的美景給吸引住, 之後地方富豪林本源 (也就是板橋林家花園的主人 – 看之前的 post: 行與影之間之林家花園 ) 還提供慈湖和後慈湖周邊 19 頃土地作為行宮建地.

The first stop is the Baiji Tunnel. It is one of the reasons why Cihu became what it is now.
Chiang Kai-Shek became fascinated by the area around the Cihu and Back Cihu Lake as it reminds him of his hometown. One of the most wealthiest merchant family of the time (also the owner of the famous Lin Garden in Banciao: see my previous post here) offered the lands around the area owned by them for Chiang Kai-Shek to build his residence.

 

接著就是要走個 40 分鐘吧.
Then we had to hike for about 40 minutes.
到了後慈湖, 天氣一點都沒有變冷!感覺很夏天.
After 40minutes of walking, we finally arrived at the Back Cihu Lake. It was pretty quiet and the weather was nice.

 

那邊有許多不同顏色的蝴蝶. 背景有點過度曝光, 不過蝴蝶我倒覺得還是捕捉的滿清楚的.
There were many kinds of butterflies.

之前這地方是不對外開放的, 所以許多自然的環境都完整的保存下來.
Because this place was not previously open to the public so the natural habitat is pretty well preserved.

 

有點看不出來這是台灣吧? (Photo from Dora’s Album)
Very summer like!
舊竹筏.
A replica of the old bamboo raft parked by the edge of the lake.

這張就是封面的照片.
This is the new cover photo.

 

之前這竹筏的用途.
How this was used back then.

 

在園區內這五間辦公室都成了展示間或是 cafe 或紀念品店. 吃的部份, 下面會 show 幾個, 蔣夫人特別喜愛的俄羅斯軟糖的部份, 可以看我之前在明星咖啡館的 post: 明星咖啡館.
There are several buildings in the area that have now been transformed into spaces for exhibits, cafe or souvenir shops. The kind of Russian candy that Madam Chiang loved is from the Astoria Cafe in Taipei. See my previous post on the cafe: Astoria and Its Past Glory.
展示大溪附近的主要古蹟和蔣家有關的古蹟.
Miniature of the historical sites in the Daxi Township.

這個是和生態有關的展示, 我們就像到了滿滿是螢火蟲的地方.
This is part of the exhibit related to natural habitat. We look like we have lots of fireflies around us.

 

另一間的展示空間放了蔣家用的家居用品. 餐具背面都印有 “蔣” 的一個紅印.
The other exhibit building displays furnitures and everyday things that the Chiang family used.

 

繪畫的空間.
Drawing room.

這邊也放了許多過去的黑白照片.
There were also lots of old black and white photos around.

 

我們對這個特別有興趣, 聽說只有這邊有? 口味還滿多種的.
On a pretty sunny and hot day, I think this plum-blossom shaped popsicle is pretty attractive. There were different kinds of flavours: Sweet taro, peanut, red bean, mulberry, strawberry, mango and chocolate. Supposedly you can only get this here.

 

這當然也要來一張啦, 其他更讚的照片要等朋友 PO 啦. xP
A photo with everyone with a popsicle is a must. But for “better” photos, I gotta wait for my friends to upload them. xP

 

老蔣也能生出這麼多的周邊商品, 不過老實說, 這些還真的滿有個性 & 帶點現代的時尚感.
The souvenir shop has quite a variety of products centred around the two old Chiang presidents. But I must admit many of these look pretty cute, modern and full of its own character.

 

在一號辦公室外. 看起來就是悠閒的地方.
Outside of of the exhibit buildings.
這是個甚麼樣的秘境步道呢? 這就是通往軍事戰備區和慈湖陵寢的路.
“Secret Trail”? This is a small train that leads to the Cihu Mausoleum

我們打頭陣, 不過這邊沒有人時還真會讓人小小害怕.
We went ahead of the group. This place is really quiet so it feels a bit scary if we were really on our own.

 

到了戰備隧道, 這本來是 60 年代反攻大陸的國光計畫戰時的疏散地區, 但隨著國光計畫的失敗, 這地方也就漸漸荒廢, 直到 2007 年有人再入內時才發現這裡已經成了一個蝙蝠洞!那時國際媒體還特地來這採訪.
This is the entrance to the Emergency Shelter Tunnel. It was originally built as an emergency shelter during the time when Guo Guang Project (a plan by the KMT party to counterattact China to regain its lost territory). But as the project fell apart the tunnel also fell into ruins. When people re-entered the tunnel in 2007, they found that it has become a huge bat cave.

 

在台灣看得到的蝙蝠品種數量在國際上可是在前幾名啊!但看看那些其他在榜上的國家, 每個土地面積都比台灣大幾百倍吧.
For a small island, Taiwan is an interesting place full of natural diversity. It was also called the “butterfly kingdom” (has the largest variety of butterflies). From this chart, you can see Taiwan has quite a variety of bat species in comparison to the other countries.
 

這裡就是慈湖陵寢, 蔣公最後長眠的地方.
The Cihu Mausoleum – The final resting place for the past president: Chiang.

 

 我們剛好遇到營隊 12 點多換哨. 這還是我第一次看到國軍換哨的儀式!
Change of guards ceremony at 12pm.

之後我們就去吃活魚和到大溪老街, 這些就看下一篇吧!
After the visit to Cihu, we went to eat lunch at an interesting fish place and the old street of Daxi. More on it in the next post.


Related Post:

– [ Taoyuan ] Chiang Kai Shek and Cihu Lake // 慈湖: 老蔣最後的家
– [ Taoyuan ] Daxi: The Old Street and Its Glamour // 大溪老街風華

Past Related Post (historically):
– [ Matsu ] Sleep with Weapons Ready Before Dawn // 馬祖: 枕戈待旦
– [ Matsu ] The War Time Stories (Beigan)  // 憶. 馬祖昔日戰地風情
– [ Matsu ] The Picturesque Pirate Village //  芹壁: 一個離島的浪漫舊城

Other Useful Sites:
兩蔣文化園區 //  The Culture Resort of the Jiang
Taoyuan Tourism Site: http://travel-taoyuan.tycg.gov.tw/e_content/jiang/jiang02.aspx
Online Application for Visit // 網上預約參觀: http://backcihu.tycg.gov.tw/Cihu/index.aspx


Photo slide show on MY FLICKR:

http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=71649

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