[ 蘭嶼 ] Above the Clouds in a 19 Seater

[ 那晚我夢到我們背著木板滑翔翼, 從懸崖縱身一跳 ]

Orchid Island (or Lanyu) is an island off the southeastern coast of Taiwan. This is a very unique island because of the aboriginal tribes and culture of this land. People here lead a simple life and their seasons are marked by the arrival of the “flying fish”. This beautiful island, at one time, was also used for disposing the nuclear waste from the nuclear power plants in Taiwan without… (continue reading...)

我們搭了一個晚上的火車到了台東, 接著早上的飛機前往蘭嶼, 超久沒坐過這種螺旋槳小飛機, 還好風大爺我們飛行的那幾天心情很平靜, 不然真的還是會讓人怕怕. 蘭嶼是為在台東外海的一個小島嶼, 島的主人是達悟族人, 這裡曾經….

… 是受過日本人統治, 穿著丁字褲出海的儀式讓許多人類學家想要研究. 這裡的純樸也曾經被利用, 在 1982 到 1996 年, 這裡成了台灣本島核電廠的核廢料的儲存地方. 但在族人發現真相後, 核廢料不再被運往儲存廠.
… the approval of the local aboriginal tribes (the people here back then were quite isolated and did not know much of the world outside so they were deceived into believing the new disposal plant was for the good of the island). More on this in the later posts.


台東機場的原住民藝文展示區. 台東這一代有滿多不同族的原住民.
In the Ta’tung airport, waiting for our flight to the Orchid Island. This is a small display room in the airport showcasing arts and crafts of the different aboriginal tribes in the Tai’tung area.


剛剛關於坐火車的好像沒講到, 坐過夜火車要好好睡是有些難度的, 所以如果要在火車上過夜, 一定要先睡飽啊!
Forgot to mention our overnight train thing. It’s not so comfortable to sleep on the overnight train to Ta’tung from Taipei. So if you plan to do that, you better have some good sleep before then.


在台東機場二樓的等待區, 很有當地風情的設計展示.
In the waiting area of the Tai’tung Airport. A work by local artists.



Coin-operated public phone booth in the airport.



An example of the aboriginal’s fishing boat that we’ll see in the Orchid Island. The colour of this one is a bit faded.


到蘭嶼不是搭船就是搭這種 19 人座的小飛機 (可以摸得到機師的那種…. 我是說距離啦)
搭船要搭 3 個小時, 而且可能浪也很刺激. 搭飛機只要大約 30 分鐘.
To get to the Orchid Island, you either take a boat there (will take about 3 hours with some potential for crazy waves), or take a small plane like this (takes about 30 minutes in a propeller plane that seats around 19 people).


到了小小的蘭嶼機場, 建築上算是還滿有地方特色的.
Arrived at the tiny airport on the Orchid Island. The building has some local fishing boat design to it.


蘭嶼上只有兩條公路吧, 一條是環島的路, 另一條是中橫. 聽說騎機車環島大約需要 45 分鐘.
機場在島的西邊, 而我們這次去住的民宿則是在島的東岸.
There’s only 2 “roads” on this island – the one that goes around the island and one that cuts across the middle part of the island (winding mountain roads). It takes about maybe 45 minutes to go around the island on a motorcycle. The airport is on the west coast. The place where we were staying at was on the east coast.


The place we stayed at is a B & B kind of place (minus the breakfast) in the tribal village of Ivalino (or Yeyin). The B&B place is named “Hiding World”.

DSC_1901 DSC_1902 DSC_1908

每間房間都有個主題, 我們佔了兩間房 –  一間比較有海洋的色彩, 另一間則有拼版船的風格.
Each room has a theme to it. We occupied 2 rooms – one with the ocean theme and the other with the Yami fishing boat theme.


這島上大部份的房子都是島上的人自己蓋的. 這間民宿也不例外, 而且裡面每間房間的油漆和裝飾也都是主人們手工完成的. 從他們的部落格就可看到這些施工的過程.
Most of the houses here on this island are made by the people here with their own hands and tools. So they might not be the most beautiful or structured buildings. But they’re impressive in the most primitive ways. The wall art and decorations in the rooms are all done by hand. The owner shared the process they went through to build and decorate the rooms on their Chinese blog.


早上都是被公雞吵醒的, 而且是那種會叫到沙啞的.
We were waken up by roosters every morning. These roosters have no sense of time, really.  Because you can hear them all day long, and not just early in the morning.


這邊的房子幾乎都是面朝大海, 門外和街上有豬或羊到處跑來跑去.
The houses here are mostly 2 or 3 stories high (max). On the streets, you’d see pigs and sheep/goats walking around.


早上一到機場, 民宿的主人幫我們把行李載回到民宿, 但我們人呢就必須自己騎摩托車到民宿, 摩托車成了我們接下來幾天的環島及追風工具了!
When we arrived in the airport that morning, the owner of the place where we stayed picked up our luggage. But we had to ride on motorcycles to the place. On this island, you’d not see fancy cars. No taxi and no place to rent a car. The only ways to get around is to walk (which is almost impossible) and ride on a motorcycle (or scooter). So that was our tool for getting around for the rest of our journey.

More Photos on My FLICKR

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This Trip Related Posts:
. [ Orchid Island ]  Above the Clouds in a 19 Seater  //  [ 蘭嶼 ]  19 人座的天空
2. [ Orchid Island ]  To the Lighthouse  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 風雨中的機車環島
3. [ Orchid Island ]  Caves and Rocky Landscape  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 上山下海的奇岩怪石 
4. [ Orchid Island ]  Dining on the Island  //  [ 蘭嶼  ] 食在蘭嶼
5. [ Orchid Island ]  A Difficult Route to the Other Worldly  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 翠綠和一身污泥的渺渺寧靜
6. [ Orchid Island ]  The Traditional House and the Flying Fish Festival  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 飛魚季與地下屋


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