[ 蘭嶼 ] The Traditional House and the Flying Fish Festival

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[ 飛魚來了, 飛魚走了 ]

Someone said there’s only 2 seasons on the Orchid Island; that is the season when flying fish is here and the season when flying fish is gone. Flying fish is a kind of fish that has “wings” (or larger and stronger than usual pectoral fins) and can leap out of water as if it were flying to escape from their predators. Flying fish is almost iconic of… (continue reading...)

聽人說, 蘭嶼只有兩個季節, 一個是飛魚來了, 一個則是飛魚走了. 來到蘭嶼之前, 對蘭嶼的印象也似乎只有飛魚, 達悟族人和核廢料廠, 還有一部叫等待飛魚的電影, 電影是…


… 還沒看啦 (到現在都還沒)… 但從電影的預告片裡, 看到了一些蘭嶼給人的那種原始和純撲的感覺.

 

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其實蘭嶼給人有種不修邊幅的感覺, 路上到處也可看到豬, 狗, 雞, 羊到處走來走去.
The Orchid Island gives people a sense of a less “crafted” way of living. Most of the buildings here are built by their own people, the houses are not necessarily symmetrical, the kids are out there playing on the street or in the piles of debris, rusted windows, doors or buildings, pigs, dogs, chicken and lambs, goats roam the streets as if they were wild, it is a very different kind of place.

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當地的達悟族人傳統的地下屋在蘭嶼已所剩不多, 許多都被拆掉就地建新房, 現在保留比較完整的只有野銀的和朗島的. 這次我們要去參觀我們野銀民宿老闆家族自己的地下屋.

The traditional houses of the Dawu aboriginals. They’re built almost underground because of the rough weather (with typhoons, strong winds, etc.) of the Pacific. Unfortunately, these “underground houses” have been destroyed in many villages. The only surviving ones can be found in the Yeyin Village and the Langdao Village with the Yeyin Village having a larger and more well preserved group of these houses. This time we visited the traditional underground house of the owner of the B&B we stayed at.

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在野銀的一些傳統地下屋.
The groups of underground houses in the Yeyin Village.

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進去屋子的 “門” 其實真的滿小的. 高的人可能有點難進.
The main “doors” of the house is actually very small. Not suitable for tall people!

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終於爬進了地下屋的第一層, 放了包包的地方算是門口/陽台吧…
Finally crawled into the first room of the house, looking at the “patio” or “front door” of the house.

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小小的空間有許多應用, 屋頂上除了綁武器以外, 還有一些小夾板放碗.
Look up at the ceiling of the house, you’d find different kinds of things strapped to the ceiling. Eg. weapons and bowls on a shelf.

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現在年輕一代的達悟族人幾乎都不住在這種傳統的屋子裡了, 老闆就跟我們說, 這是他以前爺爺奶奶時代會住的地方, 現在這邊除了燻飛魚外, 幾乎沒有在住了.
The younger generation of the Dawu tribe people no longer live in these kinds of traditional houses. It becomes more of a place that the younger generation would regard as the place where their grandparents would live. So other than doing some smoking of the flying fish in the house, the house is no longer used as a residence.

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這個小小的四方形洞就是這地下屋的入口, 如果一個家庭在地方來說很有勢力, 他的加最多可以有 4 個這樣的如口. 這個 size 真的只能用爬進去的, 這個在過去來說, 除了要擋風擋雨, 如果有海盜時, 也比較好防守一些吧. 拉門呢, 還有分輕重, 較輕的是以前屋子的女人睡的地方.
This small square is the entrance into the other room in the house. If a family is quite powerful here, they can have up to 4 of these “doors”. The size of the door is really quite small so you have to crawl to get in. Why not make the door larger? Well, in the past, these houses have to protect people from the strong winds and rain, as well as pirates!

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光滑的地板可是以前人睡出來的.
The shiny wooden floor was polished by the people who slept here for many years.

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屋子裡面還懸吊了許多過去人打獵留下來的羊角. 越多越大就像收集獎杯那樣的光榮.
There are lots of these “horns” hanging in the house. These are regarded more like the “trophies” of the men of the house. Because men were expected to go out to hunt, so the more they collect (and more of the larger ones), thee higher their social status would be.

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這些角就掛在之前的人睡覺的空間裡. 最後一張照片則是可隱約看到一件戰衣, 這就是以前的人在打仗時 (有時是族與族, 或是族與外地人) 所穿的, 現在只有在葬禮時可能會穿.
The horns are hung on the ceiling in the space or “room” where the people used to sleep. In the last photo, you can sort of see a jacket hanging in there. That is the “warrior’s suit”. In the past, when there are war (battle between villages or with outsiders), the warrior will wear this. Now, it’s more often seen in funerals.

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除了戰衣以外, 屋子最裡面, 也算最後面的空間則也是用來燻飛魚的地方.
Other than storing the warrior’s suit, the back room (the most inner and the last room) of the house is also used for smoking the flying fish.

 

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而晒飛魚的地方則是在戶外通風良好的空間, 這位是我們民宿的老闆啦. 達悟族人看起來不像華人, 也不像台灣的原住民, 反而比較像菲律賓的人.他們當然也有自己的語言, 但如許多原住民語言, 達悟的語言沒有文字, 早期, 日本佔領這島嶼時, 不同於日本人在台灣島上的建設和資源搜刮, 日本人在蘭嶼做的則是最這些族人的研究 (ethno-research), 而且那時其他的一般人是不能上這島的.

Dr
ying of flying fish needs to be done outdoor. The man you see here in this photo is our guide and also the owner of the place where we stayed at. You can see he doesn’t really look like a Chinese/Taiwanese or a Taiwanese aboriginal. He looks more like people from the Philippines. That is true because the Dawu aboriginals were originally from that area. But they have developed their own unique culture and language on this island. During the Japanese occupation era, this island was declared an area of ethnological research by the Japanese and was off-limits to the public until 1945 when the Republic of China (R.O.C. aka Taiwan) took over.

 

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不同部落的人對於飛魚有不同的處理方式, 從何時捕捉, 捕捉甚麼, 如何切, 如何綁, 如何晒, 到如何料理等等. 晾出的飛魚有多少也算代表這家的男生有多勤奮.
Different tribal villages have their own ways of catching and processing the flying fish, from the way the fish is caught, to how it’s cut and tied, to how it’s processed. The locals will also judge how diligent the men of a family is by how many of these flying fish were caught. But as I mentioned in an earlier post, catching flying fish is actually quite dangerous and is mostly done late at night.

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那天天氣特別好, 所以我們又上了氣象站, 之前提到了這氣象站是唯一留下來的日據時代建築.
The weather was better on the last day so we decided to go all the way to the Lanyu Weather Station. As I mentioned before, this is the only remaining architecture that documents the time of Japanese occupation.

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天氣還ok. 能見度還 ok.
The weather was alright. Visibility was okay.

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可是雲又飄進來了, 而且你可以看到它的移動速度真的是很快.
But the clouds were coming in again. You could see the clouds were moving very quickly and covering the landscape in a matter of seconds or minutes.

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一整片的藍海, 如果天空再藍, 可以更藍, 但看到下面黑黑的一區區的東西嗎? 那就是礁石啦.
The big blue ocean would be more blue when the sky is clear. The black/dark areas in the water are reefs or what remained of the volcanic activities.

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下山囉.
On the way down.

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要到了最後了, 我們在藍海屋吃了最後的午餐就往機場前進, 結束了 4 天在蘭嶼日夜追風, 爬山, 看海和飛魚的日子. 真是讓人開始懷念啦.
Before we headed to the Orchid Island Airport, we stopped by the Blue Ocean Cafe for a quick lunch. Then we were on our way home, coming to a closure for our days on the island with the sea wind, motorcycle rides along the coastal highway, mountain roads, and flying fish.
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This Trip Related Posts:
1
. [ Orchid Island ]  Above the Clouds in a 19 Seater  //  [ 蘭嶼 ]  19 人座的天空
2. [ Orchid Island ]  To the Lighthouse  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 風雨中的機車環島
3. [ Orchid Island ]  Caves and Rocky Landscape  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 上山下海的奇岩怪石 
4. [ Orchid Island ]  Dining on the Island  //  [ 蘭嶼  ] 食在蘭嶼
5. [ Orchid Island ]  A Difficult Route to the Other Worldly  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 翠綠和一身污泥的渺渺寧靜
6. [ Orchid Island ]  The Traditional House and the Flying Fish Festival  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 飛魚季與地下屋

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